General Information:

Tour Director: Monica Naess
St Petersburg Director: Elena
Moscow Director: Vera
Bus Driver: Andrey Sergai
(apologies if this spelling incorrect)
Fellow Travellers: 33
Mostly Aussies of course!
2 England
1 Hong Kong
2 South Africa
10 American

St Petersburg Hotel
Hotel Moscow Crowne Plaza

Optional Excursions Offered:
Peter and Paul Fortress
Neva River Cruise
Yusupov Palace
Russian Folklore evening
Catherine’s Palace
Ballet – Swan Lake
Moscow by Night
Zagorsk – the Real Russia
Russian State Circus
Russia in a Nutshell
Imperial Splendour - We did all except the Yusupov Palace. These cost an extra €828 for both of us.

Great general Website St Petersburg

Sunday 28th June Day 1 Arrival
We flew into St Petersburg after four different connecting flights from Melbourne. This was done as I was on a limited time frame – three weeks leave added onto two weeks of school holidays and didn’t want to waste a few days after school finished before I left. Despite the worry about the flights not being on time and therefore missing the next connection everything went really smoothly. The luggage went through all the channels and then was spat out promptly onto the carousel at St Petersburg.
(FYI – flew from Melbourne to Sydney, then Sydney to Bangkok – arrived 11pm and departed 12am and had to get the next 2 boarding passes from Finnair – whew, then Bangkok to Helsinki on an old plane with no TVs in the back of the seats in front!! (outrageous!), then a short flight after a three hour wait from Helsinki to St Petersburg)
This area of the airport was quite small and we had no trouble collecting our bags and heading straight through the green exit and into a foyer area with basic shops, information, and travel booths. We had a couple of hours to wait for the transfer and it was fascinating to watch the locals arriving to welcome home friends and relatives from afar. Flowers, usually roses, were carried ready to be thrust into the arms of the returning travellers.
I began to get some sense of how Russian women dress from this brief interlude.
As there was time I used an ATM here rather than at the hotel (the hotel also has an ATM if you arrive just in time for the transfer and don’t have time at the airport) which allowed me time to work out the screens, signage and language selection.
Soon a lovely young woman arrived to welcome us and collect one other couple. It always seems strange that we get collected by the bus even when there are so few to collect but ‘they’ like to point out what our bus looks like and meet the driver; in this case Andrey. He spoke little English, smoked like a chimney at every possible stop, but was nevertheless an excellent driver, very helpful and an amiable man.
The other couple on the transfer were from Sydney and were the couple I had chatted to briefly on the BB before leaving! How amazing! It was very good to meet them and have a get to know each other session whilst we enjoyed the trip to the hotel. It was even better to see the canals, buildings and St Isaacs as we neared the river Neva ready to cross over to Vasilevskiy Island and our Hotel.
We were met by the overall Tour Director, Monica, a blonde Swedish woman who was elegantly dressed and ready to assist.
The Welcome Drink and get together was to be held later that evening as many of the travellers were not arriving straight away.
We unpacked, showered and had a quick snooze – something we usually avoid on arriving after a long flight but decided that after 30 hrs we needed a ‘nana nap’ before the evening’s proceedings. So we had just under two hours sleep which was great.
We began to file into our meeting area and after eagerly taking our ‘free’ champagne we sat around several small tables and introduced ourselves to those around us. The meeting began fairly quickly and Monica went through some of the information about the tour, where to buy water, have meals near the hotel etc.
Gradually more tour members arrived and we finally went in to dinner at around 8.30/45pm.
Dinner was an entrée salad of tomatoes, cucumber and lettuce (bit bland) followed by a really nice chicken dish with caramelised onion sauce and scalloped potatoes and then fruit salad for dessert. The restaurant area is dark wood and the tables were set beautifully with white clothes, silver cutlery and crystal glassware – so that part is certainly very elegant. I met Janet from Hong Kong who also wrote on the BB and a couple from Melbourne who live within a few kilometres of us. Lots of travellers from Sydney.
After the meal people separated to do various chores, go for a walk, buy supplies or sleep.
Mark and I went out to the local supermarket to buy extra water. By this time it was around 10pm and still very light. The local shop is very close and mostly sells alcohol and water. Turn right from front door of the hotel and cross one road. The water cabinets were locked but you could buy alcohol! The man directed (well pointed anyway) to another shop just a few doors down and we were able to get the girl to unlock the fridge and buy some water!! That was fun.
We put the bottles in our room and went for an explore near the hotel. The hotel is only a couple hundred metres from the Neva River and there were many Russian people out and about strolling along the banks, sitting in boats, or disappearing into basement entrances to bars.
There is a beautiful church near the hotel, The Temple of the Assumption, its domes glistening gold in the evening sun; photos were called for. There were sections under renovation and we learnt later that the Communists had converted it into a swimming pool. We had decided to turn right at the end of our street instead of left as we felt that we would see more of the famous areas to the left over the coming days. The river down this area has an old submarine, large boats and is the around the shipping precinct of the city.
The young, thin Russian girls in their impossibly short skirts and stilettos teetered by clinging tightly to the arms of young men who were clinging tightly to an open bottle of vodka or beer.
Almost every Russian we walked past had alcohol – sitting on the edge of the river, walking past or lounging in one of the boat bars along this area. Fascinating.
We were to learn later that there are far more Russian women then men so they take very great care to remain attractive in order to find a husband. And so we were to continue to witness Russian women of all ages in heels and very well dressed over the next six days.
When it was nearly twelve midnight we decided to walk back to the hotel and catch up on more sleep before the tour began in earnest. It was a very balmy evening and we enjoyed the walk very much. We chickened out on joining the Russians at a local bar for a vodka night cap.
(FYI – if you get a chance it’s a terrific idea to either stay up until after1am or set the alarm and walk back down to the river to watch the bridges being raised so that the boats can use the river during the night to deliver supplies etc. We intended to do so; didn’t, and regret this. Apparently it’s excellent.)
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2P1090784.JPG (155 KB, 6 downloads) Temple of Assumption

Monday 29th June Day 2 St Petersburg
Temperature 16°C - overcast with a cool wind. Wake up call around 7am.
Bus 8.15am - For start of City Tour

The buffet breakfast at the hotel was excellent. If you want something the waiting staff is basic with their English but way better than my Russian and you can usually make yourself understood eg need coffee! It was the beginning of our enjoyment of Smoked Salmon for breakfast and the small blinis here are really good.
Off to the morning tour of St Petersburg and we met our guide Elena; an attractive blonde woman with an excellent command of English, superb knowledge of Russian history and a Masters in Art History. She has being doing this for twenty years so Mark thinks she must have started when she was four. She was extremely well organised, patient and I particularly liked the way she considered before she spoke, gazing upwards, measuring her words carefully and was probably deciding which one of the four trillion facts and figures about history, buildings or art she was about to dazzle us with.

The following is a synopsis of some notes I took as we drove around. Apologies for the detail – it was very interesting.
We began driving past the University area of St Petersburg; still on the island. Vasilevskiy Island is the largest of the 42 islands in STP. The mouth of the river Neva runs into the Gulf of Finland. There are 500 bridges, 65 canals and these criss-cross the city giving STP the title of the Venice of the North. In the eighteenth century Peter the Great invited architects from all over Europe to come and design his city. He wanted it to be cosmopolitan in feeling and therefore it is often considered to be the most European of all Russian cities. It has certainly given it a uniqueness; its own character.
We looked at several of the Baroque buildings of the University; the pale blue department of Languages, and saw the statue of the University’s famous 18th century scientist Mikhail Lomonosov as well as passed the attractive Kunstkammer; the Chamber of Curiosities. It is very difficult for young Russians to get into the University and very prestigious. There are 4 difficult entrance exams and 37 candidates for each vacancy.
We stopped for a photo opportunity across the road from the Naval Museum which was once the Stock Exchange and took photos looking back at the Hermitage or Winter Palace, one of the five buildings of the Museum. We stood underneath the Rostral Columns (1810) with their huge sculptures representing the great rivers of Russia at their bases and the prows jutting out from the structures to represent the sea faring importance of STP. These are lit up on special occasions. Today STP is still important as a sea and river port. We saw Peter and Paul fortress in the distance with its distinctive gold spire. Built in 1703, we would return to it later.
The city itself was called Petrograd from 1914 until 1924 when it was changed to Leningrad. In 1991 there was a referendum and more than 50 percent of the population voted for a return to the original name of St Petersburg.
Elena told us that all 65 canals freeze in winter – around the first of October and begin to melt around the end of April. We cross the Palace Bridge – there are 22 draw bridges in STP and from May to Oct ships sail up the Neva from the Gulf. We pass the Palace Square with its impressive Alexander Column and momentarily glimpse the chariot sculpture on the top of the pale yellow General Staff buildings.
We do a quick drive up Nevskiy Prospekt, the main shopping street; a busy road with beautiful buildings and a series of churches glimpsed between commercial shops and palaces once belonging to the nobles of STP. This road has been the hub of the city’s social life since the 18th century. We pass the Strogonov Palace and Catherine’s statue. The Anichkov Bridge with four horse sculptures is a bridge towards one end of the road.
There are many impressive buildings to view, each painted an attractive colour and built only to the same height of the Winter Palace. It is the city of Palaces; there are more than 100.
Another spire to glimpse – this time the Admiralty Building; a landmark in the city and its architectural centre.
We drive around the Ballet districts and theatres and see the Russian Ballet School and admire its façade. More churches and more palaces. Gorgeous. I would need a lot longer to explore these buildings and resolve to come back one day to do so.
Elena told us about the buildings as we drove by them and also about Russian history, various wars and the fact that it is light from only 10am to 3pm in winter. There is a festival called the White Nights for 6 weeks from the end of May to July when it never gets dark.
Info on White Nights
We stop for another photo opportunity at the Field of Mars. This area was once used for military manoeuvres and parades and contains the Eternal Flame Monument dedicated to the memory of the victims in St. Petersburg of all wars and revolutions. We all madly click and stroll and try to capture the Church on Spilled Blood seen clearly from this area. I zoom onto the tiny workman perched on scaffolding repairing one of the beautiful domes. Elena tells us about the Church. The Russian Revival church was built in 1881 on the spot that Alexander II was assassinated. There were 7 attempts to assassinate Alexander as foretold by a gypsy fortune teller before he was finally killed. If only the sun was out the domes would sparkle more for my photos!
More Palaces.
Catherine built many – for her children and for her current male favourites at court. We see the Marble Palace built as a reward to a favourite for murdering her husband! At 32 in 1762 she ascended the throne and ruled for 34 years. She founded the Hermitage in 1764. We look at the Trinity Bridge, a gift from the French Government and built by Eiffel. We see the building housing Peter the Great’s log cabin, the Blue Mosque, the Naval Cadet School and the Cruiser Aurora. The traffic gets heavier.
We pass the Statue of Peter the Great on a horse on top of a granite wave. Snakes representing his enemies are crushed under the hooves. I take yet another photo through the bus windows and hope that the reflection isn’t too dreadful. Nearby is the Wedding Palace which is a building on the river bank where the young couples of STP come to get married. The pink Hummer is amusing.

We then have a bathroom stop – yay! This is in a souvenir shop called the Red October (LOL) and we hunt for souvenirs. We purchased two lovely prints of the city to have framed later and I decided that although I looked fetching in a fur hat I was probably not going to get a lot of wear out of it in Australia! More possibilities?...the Russian nestling dolls called Matryoshka, amber from the Baltic Sea, lacquer boxes, hats, books… lots to look at and think about. Coffee and tea are available here but there are too many things to decide upon so we just shopped.
Out and about again. St Isaac’s cathedral – its 48 huge red granite columns from Finland supporting the building with its fourth tallest cupola in the world and offering a great view if one climbs the four hundred or so steps to do so, the list goes on. We head to Peter and Paul Fortress for the Optional tour. All this and it is not yet midday!
Elena leads us into the main square of the Fortress and discusses its history – the fortress was built in 1703, is the oldest building in STP and was planned as a defence against the Swedes by Peter the Great. We have a guided tour inside the Baroque Cathedral of Peter and Paul. We see the tombs of Royalty including Peter the Great’s tomb and the room where DNA identified remains of the Romonovs are now re-buried.
We are then escorted into a chapel area and are enthralled with a short concert given by five monks singing Russian church music. Their voices resonate in the interior of the chapel as they sing a Capella, and in particular one very deep voice is fascinating. This voice is reputed to be the deepest male singing voice in the world at present. How do they measure that? It sent chills down my spine when he did a solo. I dutifully purchased the CD.
We stroll as a group outside and view several buildings from the outside before hurrying to catch the 12pm cannon firing. We miss the firing but can’t fail to miss the huge boom clearly heard across the cobbled square.
There are many more buildings to explore and I would have loved to have walked along the battlements. But that is the end of the Optional. I believe this Optional sits nicely at the end of the morning tour and should be included in the tour rather than as an Optional. Still it was worth doing as it would have been difficult to fit it in at another time ourselves.

St Isaac's Cathedral below:

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Day 2 The Afternoon and Evening
The bus drove back to St Isaac’s Square, which seems to be the tourist parking area and crammed with tourists (not that I am a tourist!) and buses crammed with more tourists from around the globe.
It was now 12.15 and we had until 1.45 for lunch before setting off to Peterhof. Elena gave us quite a number of suggestions for lunch at several restaurants in the streets leading away from the square.
Mark and I went for a closer look at St Isaacs and trawled around the souvenir wagons to price the different options before making final decisions later in the week.
We then went to one of the suggested restaurants which had already prepared food that you could point to, instead of worrying about your Russian, as well as different drink options. We had a delicious stew and a beer and sat outside to watch the passing locals. Many of the others on tour also stopped here and we all ate very well. It was interesting to watch the girl who serves us. After she put scoops of our food on the plates she weighed our food in order to price it. There was time for a walk around the block and then back to the bus.

By now it was a warm and sunny 22° and a beautiful afternoon. Peterhof (Petrodvorets) – Peter’s palace is famous for the garden and fountains but it is also a collection of palaces. It is 30 km south of the city right on the Gulf of Finland so we had a nice drive and more sights to enjoy as we passed different areas of the city. We pass more canals and elegant buildings before seeing the taller and uglier Communist apartment blocks. Elena told us a story about her grandmother and the Communist League. This is why these tours are so great – apart from the sights you get first hand accounts of life.
We entered a very busy car park, once again crammed with buses and followed instructions to meet Elena at the main entrance gates. There were many tourist stalls here with lots of things to buy.
Entering through the gate we stopped at the top of the terrace area whilst we learnt about the fountains, their construction and general information. The vista as we first enter and look down the cascade is breathtaking.
We were given a tour of some areas with Elena and then had an hour or so free time to walk around the gardens and buildings and of course take several hundred more photos.
The main Palace was commissioned in 1714 and the estate was intended to rival Versailles; which it does. The Nazis occupied this palace in WW2 and severely burnt and damaged several structures which have been slowly restored. At the centre of the main fountain – The Grand Cascade is the Main statue of Samson wrestling a lion. Overall the Cascade comprises of 37 gilded bronze sculptures, 64 fountains and 142 water jets! It descends from the terraces slowly empties out into the Gulf.
It was an absolutely gorgeous place: large areas of trees, lawn, squirrels running around, sculptures and beautiful fountains at every turn with many Russians also taking advantage of day to stroll around and enjoy the gardens. We walked to the building used by Peter as a less formal house; the Cottage Palace – still very rich inside and then along the edge of the Gulf to the end of the canal.
The fountains were superb and we thoroughly enjoyed this place. Again, another place one could easily revisit especially to have time to look inside the different buildings as well. This tour only allowed time for the gardens themselves.
I purchased some cute Russian dolls in their national costumes to hang on the Christmas tree here – wish I had got a few more for friends at home as they are small to put in a corner of the suitcase.
Peterhof Link
Arriving back around late afternoon (5.30pm) there was a little time to freshen up and have dinner before the Neva River Cruise. Many travellers went to an area close to the hotel with a range of cafes but we decided to be lazy and stay around the hotel. We had a wonderful dinner – I had salmon with a caviar sauce and Mark had fillet with mushrooms and vegetables and a good glass of wine. Excellent!
By the way the Russian champagne is also very good but a little sweet.
The meeting time was 7pm for the cruise. We were taken to the boat by the bus and then enjoyed a long ride down many canals. The evening sun gave a yellow light to the buildings and canal and we sat on seats on top of the boat and drank vodka poured out by Monica. There was plenty for seconds, thirds and fourths!! I took lots of photos of course and maniacally zoomed in on the building details.
The entertainment, provided by two women and two men playing the balalaika, the accordion and something that made a clacking noise, drifted up to us. One of the women also sang traditional songs. I stayed on top while most went down to listen. I went down for a little while but also enjoyed the views too much to stay too long below decks.
We were also kept amused by a young boy who ran along side the canals and in front of us who stopped to wave down at us at every bridge we went under. He did a lot of running and kept this up for the whole cruise finally waiting to meet up at the end with outstretched hand for tips. I gave him something – he was making me tired with his effort!! This is obviously another way to make money from tourists.
We came back to the hotel two or so hours later.
This is a terrific optional as you get a different perspective from the boat than the bus. I probably enjoyed it more than Mark.
My stamina disappeared immediately I lay down on the bed, although I believe it had something to do with the amount of vodka I had consumed! So much for getting up again to watch the bridge opening!
And don’t you hate it when another traveller tells you the next day that it was so fantastic that you really ought to have seen it etc Grrr!

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Tuesday 30th June Day 3 Hermitage and Optionals.
As we had a late night we were allowed to stay in bed longer and so did not have to meet until 10am for our visit to the Hermitage. It doesn’t open until 10.30am anyway!
Another very good breakfast but the hotel was a bit busier this morning with another tour group in.
A short drive to the Hermitage and then a short wait in line for entry.
I am SO excited – one of my life long things to see and to tick off a long list is about to begin. Being an Art teacher and knowing that this houses one of the world’s greatest collections is one of the reasons I chose this tour.
We ignore the never ending eager souvenir vendors offering us stamps (are they kidding?), books (not carrying that around now!), large dolls (again – are they kidding and not carrying that around now!)

Once inside we were split into two groups and we made sure we were still with Elena. We ascend the magnificent staircase and listen to the building’s history trying very hard to imagine ourselves waltzing up in long gowns. The actual Winter Palace was built for Tsarina Elizabeth between 1754 and 62.
Elena takes us through the State Rooms and we admire the size, decorations, light fittings and inlaid wooden floor. The two headed eagle is apparent on the light fittings and now gradually replacing the hammer and sickle when historical buildings are renovated. Elena has many interesting facts and figures to impart as we are taken to see a whirlwind Best of the Best across the different buildings that make up the museum. We saw rooms with huge urns and magnificent tables and fireplaces; art filling the walls. We looked at Leonardo’s Madonna Litta, works by artists across Europe and across the centuries, a whole room of Rembrandt masterpieces with their subdued lighting and worn faces, and sculptures such as Michelangelo’s Crouching Boy. The room of Italian art had cabinets of vibrant pottery. We stroll past Raphael Loggias a copy of the 16th gallery in the Vatican with its beautiful paintings of birds and animals and biblical scenes.
We glimpse other rooms to explore and then arrive in the area of chandeliers and unbelievable mosaic floor. Lastly we trek up to the Impressionists, Picasso and Matisse. We then had a brief time to look around, have lunch and Elena discusses lunch options in the Hermitage and the meeting place for return to the hotel or to go on the Optional. It is 12.15 so the tour was a fabulous overview given by a woman with an incredible memory.
Mark and I have decided to stay longer in here and forego the Yusupov Palace so that we can look around more. We looked at the rest of the modern area then headed down to the souvenirs. This is a wonderful place to buy special things so I got a silver brooch of a stag and three small copies of Faberge eggs to hang on chains for our daughters and myself to remember my visit. The Russian boxes and glassware in here are gorgeous but very expensive. It was also nice not to have to rush in making decisions as sometimes happens at the end of excursions to places – 10mins getting back on the bus can be very hard for someone like me who likes to browse.
We had a quick lunch of open sandwiches, pizza and beer from the café and explored the Greek Vases in their columned and richly decorated room before looking through the Antiquities area.
Around three we decided that the visual overload on the senses was enough. We walked out and around to the Palace Square for exterior photos, passing the huge Atlantes sculptures.
Hermitage

Consulting the map we decided to go to the Church on the Spilled Blood and enjoyed this walk and watching a limousine trying to do a u turn in a tiny crowded street. It was a terrific chance to take more photos of the outside of the Church. Due to time constraints we didn’t go inside but hear it is very interesting. There are also some lovely gardens to stroll around in this vicinity.
There are many opportunities for souvenir hunting around the church but we kept going and walked along the Griboedova Canal and back to Nevskiy Prospeckt. It was great to look more closely at some of the architecture we saw from the bus on the morning tour. As it would have taken too long by now to walk back to hotel, freshen up, eat something before the next optional we decided to try and aim for the Yusupov Palace and hitch a ride back with the others finishing their tour.
It took a lot longer than we thought and we certainly walked very fast over a few kilometres but managed to get to the bus a few minutes before they finished.
Most of those who did this Optional really enjoyed it.
Back at hotel at around 5.30 or so we had to be ready for the bus in a short time so opted to freshen up and have a liquid/snack dinner rather than rush to a local café. Other travellers also decided to have a drink at the bar, some went locally, some rested – it’s whatever you feel comfortable with.
(For wardrobe concerns – many wore what they had worn the whole day, I had a shower and wore a more evening top but added a nice necklace and jacket – so did some of the other ladies. The men either changed shirts and freshened up or wore what they had been wearing during the day. Some added a nice jacket for the ballet option the next evening. It depended what you decided to do for dinner and the time available)
I had champagne and we shared yummy mixed platter of smoked salmon and pate and bread.
Should have noted when we had to leave but around 6.45 I think.
Optional: Russian Folklore Evening.
The theatre for the show seemed modern and the foyer was filled with more souvenir possibilities – shawls, dolls and CDs.
If you wish to take photos or video footage you had to pay and Elena organised this for us and handed out the tickets.
The show was highly entertaining – very Russian music so don’t expect them to break out in an English version of a Russian tune. The dancers were great and had many costume changes before and after interval so there was always something new to watch. The men did various tricks, the traditional Russian dance moves and some played instruments and acted out stories during the dances. The girls were tiny with large eyes and expressive faces. I enjoyed the costumes very much as I had made many costumes for the daughters when they did ballet and these included national costumes. I took close ups of the decorations and hoped these photos would work out.
The Red Army Choir was also excellent and different members had solos to perform so we had tenor and bass solos and also solos from some of the band members. Many of the Russian in the audience knew the songs and were quietly singing along. The choir’s uniform caps were huge and in particular they looked really absurd on one young man with a very long neck. Amusing.
At interval we had a glass of champagne. Monica hovered around making sure our groups’ quota was not pinched by one of the other tour groups.
Everyone seemed to find this Optional worth the money. Other choices would have been to walk back into town yourself or eat locally and take your time or rest.
Once back at the hotel Mark and I decided to relax in the room and sleep having walked for 5 hrs in the Hermitage and then another 2hrs around STP we needed to put the feet up. We were not hungry enough to go out for dinner so late and sleep soundly until morning.

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Wednesday 1st July Day 4
Last breakfast at the hotel and we had to have suitcases packed earlier to go on the bus with Andrey and an overnight bag for the train which we could bring down during the morning. (I am hazy on the times as was really slack here and didn’t jot it down so apologies all for that.)
The suitcases needed to be out so that they could be driven to Moscow by Andrey. The overnight bags were left in the luggage room of the hotel and we picked them up later in the day.
There was a relief driver for the afternoon’s tour.
The trip to Catherine’s Palace was in the afternoon and the meeting time for this was 12.15pm. We had the morning to ourselves. Unfortunately most of the interesting things to visit open very late morning which allows little time to look around.
We decided to visit the Kunstkammer which was on this side of the river but didn’t open until 11am. We went for a walk around the local streets with the cafes and explored the area we hadn’t seen as yet around the hotel. We went to the local market which was fun and bought raspberries, cherries and other fruit and sat on the river bank outside the Academy of Arts and under the Egyptian sphinxes to eat some. It was a beautiful morning. We had a sort of conversation with some men in the market who knew about Kostya Tszyu the boxer who now fights in Australia.
We kept walking till we got to the rather long queue for the Kunstkammer and resolved that if we weren’t inside by 11.30 we would walk back to the bus instead. We were not worried or anxious to visit this one way or the other but certainly if it had opened at 10 or 10.30 it would have been achievable.
When it got to 11.35 we walked back stopping at a souvenir shop on the way for some bits and pieces with STP specifically on them and arrived back with 5mins to spare.
One of the other tour members had been further up the front of the queue for the museum and had enjoyed the little they saw but did say it was very badly organised. Next time!
This museum was begun by Peter the Great in 1718 and the name means the Chamber of KunstkammerCuriosities. The museum houses all sorts of curiosities including the 2.27m skeleton of his manservant and a series of deformed foetuses!
Optional: Tsarskoye Selo
The trip to Catherine’s Palace showed us a different area of St Petersburg and the small town of Pushkin. Once again we were treated to aspects of the history of STP, life of the Russian people and personal insights from Elena on the bus trip.
We entered via the back entrance and through magnificent gates. We tried to madly take photos whilst rushing to queue up. The gates opened on a large sweeping lawn around with paths leading around the building and straight to the entrance. The building was enormous and painted in the distinctive blue colour one recognises from the travel brochures with its white highlights and amazing gilded atlantes, caryatids and pilasters. Unfortunately there was a large section under scaffolding including the gold domes but obviously they need some summer weather for restoration purposes.
The magnificent palace and gardens were established by Catherine 1 as a country retreat but Tsarina Elizabeth commissioned the Palace itself which was built by Bartolomeo Rastrelli, the architect of St. Petersburg's Winter Palace
Catherine's Palace
The entry area has a number of shops and many of the ladies on tour did the usual restroom rush before the guided tour. Once through we had to put the booties on over our shoes to protect the floors we set off on the tour. We were allowed to take photos of most areas except the famous Amber Room. There was a lot to see and to take in.
Most amazing of all were the before photos of the Palace as it has been almost completely destroyed in World War 2 and gradually it has been restored through looking at old photos and reading first hand descriptions of the various rooms.
The Great Hall, also known as the Hall of Light and modelled after Versailles Hall of Mirrors, measures nearly 1,000 square meters, and occupies the full width of the palace so that there are superb views on either side. There is a vast quantity of gilded stucco decorating the walls, and the entire ceiling is covered by a monumental fresco entitled The Triumph of Russia. Its windows looked out onto a park area and the soft afternoon breezes and sunshine showed us how lovely it must have been to enjoy the Palace in summer. We were shown many attractive paintings, ornate furnishings and rooms used by Catherine. The famed Amber Room lived up to its notoriety and magnificence. In 1982, the order was given to begin the recreation of the Amber Room after the first amber room disappeared after being packed up by the Nazis was given. This restoration took over 20 years and cost more than $12 million. Opened in 2003 by President Vladimir Putin and Chancellor Gerhard Schroeder, the restored Amber Room is truly unique and a testament to the painstaking care of the craftsmen who worked on it. I really liked the green and white room that looked like Wedgewood pottery.
Once we were finished we ditched the slippers and investigated the shops. I bought playing cards as presents and a book on the Palace with much better photos of the interiors than I knew mine would be.
We were given extra time for looking outside or getting something to eat. The exit leads out onto the front of the building and wow – even more beautiful – so more photos. The blue against the blue sky was divine. This was only spoilt by a very long queue of people waiting to go in. Another bonus for a tour as you don’t have to wait very long for entries into the main attractions.
There are tall trees and enormous gardens to explore as well as other outdoor buildings, many of which are still being restored. We looked around and then several of us opted to have a late lunch/snack in the outdoor café in the gardens. We had spicy sausages and beer and other chose coffee and cake. It was a bit pricey for what we got but ok.
Back on the bus all too quickly. Again this was a lovely place to have more time to explore the gardens further and also the town which has other Palaces and interesting buildings.
We were driven straight back to town and an early dinner together – borsht soup, very good beef Strogonov etc
I threw on some jewellery I had put in my day bag to give myself a better look. I had an evening top in the carry on but didn’t get time to change.
The theatre for the ballet is the beautiful old Alexandrinsky Theatre just off Nevskiy Prospeckt and behind the only statue of Catherine the Great in St Petersburg.
We were able to take some photos of the gold and red interior and the royal box but not the actual performance.
The ‘guards’, I mean theatre staff, were very official, very formal and very old. (lol) They kept an eagle eye on us in case we ran amok!
The ballet itself was excellent and improved over the performance. The costumes were fabulous and so was the set. The leading man was young and a bit wimpy, but we thought everyone else excellent.
At interval we went out onto the upstairs balcony which gives a good view over the back of the statue (!) and other buildings around the area. It was a balmy evening and a pleasant temperature.
In summary, everyone enjoyed this option, even those who knew little about the ballet and my Mark even managed to stay awake for most of it!!
Back to the hotel again to pick up those who hadn’t done this optional and check all our overnight bags were in the bus and then we were taken to the train station.
Once again Elena organised us all carefully and efficiently and we trooped out onto the platform to await the train. We were given our carriage numbers and room numbers and information about the train. This is the time to say goodbye and thankyou to Elena. She was wonderful.
A very official looking person who was the carriage attendant stood at the doorway to the carriage. Ours was an older lady dressed in a smart uniform. The carriage interior was decked out in yellow and red (of course!) with tasselled curtains on the windows and the small rooms were well organised with towels, nice bedding and snacks. Men trawled through the carriage offering other refreshments and we purchased a large beer each – for €15! The train departed around midnight.
We got organised and I went from room to room to chat to the others on the train and provide bandages to an American lady who had cut her foot. Mark helped some get their beds down. It was fun – like being on camp! Lol OK, the shared toilet at the end of the carriage is annoying but it is similar to an airplane toilets and I did not find it horrible. There was ample paper and a basin to use to freshen up. There were two of them. It was fine.
Mark and I tried the snacks and enjoyed the scenery flashing past. We left the blind on the window up and drifted to sleep. We slept really well but found out next morning that several other travellers had found it difficult to sleep due to train movement or not realising that you could actually pull the blind down to make the compartment dark.
Mark was amazed that there are 2m high fences down both sides of the train track the whole way t o Moscow – prevent deer etc wandering onto the tracks. That’s around 700 km of fencing!

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Thursday 2nd July Day 5 Moscow
Overcast with some sun - 20°
We arrived around 7.45am at Moscow station and were met by our next Director Vera, a tall blonde lady and by Andrey who had driven the bus for 12 hrs the previous day to get here.
The first stop was breakfast at a café called Vanilla Sky; a very modern upstairs restaurant and we had yoghurt, eggs, bread, fruit and coffee. It is great to circulate and meet others on the tour on these set meals. We chatted to two ladies who live really close to us in Melbourne. We had two breakfasts as had one given to us on the train as well!
Then a short walk to the underground stations to look at the different decorations. After strict instructions from Monica and Vera to make sure we got out at the right station we all went down the steep escalators and onto the first station to view the large sculptures of healthy Communist youth engaged in various activities.
We saw chandeliers, attractive tiling and mosaics and none of us missed the right station! The funny part is having the group photo taken in the station. It is a good spot to take it and a nice background but I think a few of us wished we had had a chance to tidy ourselves up after the overnight train. Didn’t matter!
Then onto the bus and the tour of Moscow beginning with the newly built and enormous cathedral of Christ the Saviour rebuilt in 1994 – 97. The recreation of the Church of Christ the Saviour was considered a symbol of Russia's spiritual revival after the long years of atheistic Communist rule. The original cathedral was blown up on Stalin’s orders in 1931. The total bill was US$200 million most of which cam from the State budget at a time when many Muscovites were poverty stricken. We were not allowed to take pictures inside so I bought a small booklet with some coloured photos. The building can reportedly accommodate 10,000 people and is in constant use now especially by older Russian women to come and worship. It is the largest Russian Orthodox Church and has 9000 sq metres of gold leaf gilding! I have a lot more facts from my booklet! Outside the church is a small park and a statue of Tsar Alexander II.
Church of Christ the Redeemer
We toured around further until we came to an entrance to the Red Square through the Resurrection Gate; twin red towers topped by green spires. Parking the bus we entered under these archways near the Historical Museum, a distinctive red-brown building with white highlights on the roof, and also near the Kazan Cathedral. The Cathedral is a replica of the original which was built in 1637 to house the icon of the Kazan Virgin. The icon is now a copy as the original was stolen in1904. Vera mentioned that Lenin was accepting visitors today! The line was for those wishing to view Lenin was extremely long.
We learnt some history about the area, St Basils and the Communists. The Red Square is the most famous city square in Moscow, and arguably one of the most famous in the world. The square separates the Kremlin, the former royal citadel from a historic merchant quarter. As major streets of Moscow radiate from here in all directions, Red Square is often considered the central square of Moscow and of all Russia. It was created by Ivan III and was a market square in the 15th century. The name red comes from the Russian word krasnyy which means beautiful and has nothing to do with the Communists! It is the area used for processions and pageants. Military parades were given by Soviet leaders who stood outside Lenin’s mausoleum to view them. Behind this Mausoleum are the graves of famous Communists including Stalin, Brezhnev and Andropov as well as Yuriy Gagarin and Maxim Gorky.
Once the history lesson was over we had just under an hour for lunch and exploration. We took lots of photos particularly of the magnificent St Basils church. St Basil’s cathedral was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible to celebrate the capture of a Mongol stronghold in 1552 and completed in 1561. According to legend Ivan was so amazed by the beauty of the architect’s work that he had him blinded so that he would never be able to design anything so beautiful again. Sounds like the sort of thing he would do! The domes are a myriad of colours and shapes creating an astounding overall picture. There is the blue and white twisting dome of the Chapel of St Cyprian, the red and white zigzag of the Chapel of St Nicholas and the green, terra cotta and white decorative façade to name only a few of the different effects that come together and somehow work magnificently. Mark and I went closer to view the exterior and pattern work and then went across the square and inside Gum debating what type of food we wanted, if any, versus taking further photos.



The ornate Neo-Russian facade of GUM, really a Department Store, takes up almost the entire eastern side of Red Square. Built between 1890 and 1893 the building features an interesting combination of Russian medieval architecture and an elegant steel framework and glass roof, reminiscent of the great turn of the century train stations of Paris and London. This modern 3-story arcade was built to replace the old hall of the Upper Trading Rows, which existed earlier on the same site but burnt down in 1825. The original hall contained some 1,200 separate shops and stalls and was one of Moscow's liveliest markets.
There is an amazing deli inside Gum and the food on display is really interesting and looks extremely delicious. I tried to take a photo but one of the store guards wouldn’t let me! Seriously, it’s only a food shop – did he think I was going to open one up in Australia and copy it? lol
We didn’t go up to all floors but some of the group did – some had ice creams – some just had drinks - some had lunch. Mark and I went back outside and sat in a café to have a drink and watch the passing parade of Red Square. The cafe was really slow with the bill and we had to hurry to the meeting place.

We began to really appreciate Vera. She is totally different from Elena in many ways but the further we went around Moscow the more information and stories she would tell us. She also knew her stuff – history and art and also random size, weight and numerical facts. The best part was that she was so totally passionate about Moscow and engaging. She wanted us to go back and explain to people back home how we found Russia different to what we may have expected – and we did. She also had an amusing way of telling us jokes – usually political and so she would have to explain their context in history and how the Russians find these jokes hilarious.
That’s an example of the unexpected – Russians with a sense of humour!!
The bus drove to the hotel now and we were shown more of Moscow as we drove. We saw the first of the wedding cake buildings from a distance, the Russian White house and were witness to the wide streets and business commercial areas. The hotel is the Crowne Plaza. As Moscow is very big you can walk from the hotel to some of the sights but it will take longer than you might imagine. There is a metro station but again not that close – 15- 20mins walk.
We had some time to actually freshen up after the long train trip and morning tour and get ready for an early provided dinner.
This dinner was held in a restaurant of the hotel, not the nice light breakfast room, but a dark tomb that obviously catered for groups and tonight held only us. The food was very bland and we were served almost too efficiently to enjoy what we were eating. The main was chicken and there was a cake dessert already sitting at the table. We didn’t bother with wine as the meal seemed too rushed to enjoy it. For a good hotel I thought they let themselves down even if we were only a tour group. I had a terrific conversation chatting to the English gentleman who taught the classics at Oxford. (of course!)
Those going on the Moscow at Night Optional went back to rooms to get jackets and cameras.

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Day 5 Evening
Moscow at Night Optional.
The Moscow at night option began by stopping almost directly opposite our hotel to take photos of the Ukraine hotel, one of the wedding cake buildings and now being converted into apartments. Then a trip to the area called Sparrow Hills which gives terrific views over the city. Newly wed couples come here to have their photos taken with the panorama in the background. Opposite the viewpoint where we looked at the old Olympic Stadium and other buildings of note is the Moscow State University. The building is one of Stalin’s Wedding Cakes and is absolutely enormous – at 36 floors it is the tallest of his buildings. We had a 15min stop to take photos of the panorama and then another quick stop close to the University to take photos of the building.
We drove down through sections of the Uni and then different colleges such as the Medical buildings and heard tales of the Medical system. We pass avenues of silver birch looking elegant and living up to their comparisons with beautiful young women. The birch is the Russian national tree.
Then down past Gorky Park – here is a spot we ALL wanted to stop and look at rather than zoom past the entrance in a bus. Gorky Park is named in honour of Maxim Gorky the writer and is more than 297 acres in size. Apparently it is not that exciting inside!! It has a theme park and is used by the Russians throughout the year for many activities
We continue in this area of the city and come to the magnificent Novodevichiy Convent. Vera has told us about Stalin’s second wife Nadezhda Alliluyeva (no wonder she killed herself) who is buried at the convent along with many famous Russians like Chekhov, and then we learn that the lake next to the Convert is where Tchaikovsky saw swans swimming and was inspired to write Swan Lake. The towers of the Convert glisten against the blue dusk.
The Convent is huge and is another place that would be interesting to visit rather than looking from the outside. It is a fortified institution founded in 1524 although most of the buildings were added in the late 17th century by Peter the Great’s half sister Sophia. She was confined here after Peter deposed her. I take photos of the faceted towers rising above the walls and the domes of the Bell Tower and the Assumption Church.
Finally a stop near the huge and new statue to commemorate Peter the Great. The statue erected in 1997 looks like something out of a Disneyland theme park. Giant Peter stands on top of a small ship clutching a map. I think we should have looked at this briefly and had drinks at Gorky Park.
Anyway, we stop at the statue to drink champagne out of plastic cups (!!) and to chat and kill some time before heading back to the Red Square.
The idea is to get back to Red Square when the lights get switched on Gum Department Store and St Basils. This was duly achieved. What a fabulous sight. The Store looked magnificent as did the beautiful cathedral. All Mark needed now was for a fireworks show to entertain us above the Kremlin and the whole scene would have been complete!!
Back onto the bus all too soon and back to the Hotel. Excellent Optional as you get to see more landmarks that would take ages to explore yourself.

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Friday July 3rd Day 6 Day Trip to Zagorsk and Trinity Monastery of St Sergius
The Crowne Plaza has an extensive breakfast, seemingly a lot of tables but is very, very busy. We managed to grab a table and get coffee (a must for me first thing in the morning!)
There were pancakes to have with the salmon and a good selection of fresh fruit as well as the usual breakfast fare.
Depart for the Optional Trip to Zagorsk 8.30(?)am.
After much deliberation on the BB as to whether we would actually take this optional if offered, we decided to take the trip for a number of reasons. One was we actually really like sitting in a bus and looking at the countryside and thought it was an excellent opportunity to see other aspects of Russian life other than the larger cities. We were very glad that we had made the choice even though it meant seeing less of some of the other sights in Moscow. After all – need to leave something for next time!! (If debating on the optional, I believe it is certainly personal preference. If there are particular landmarks in Moscow that you would rather visit then that is something to weigh up when juggling time between the included areas and the optionals offered)
The drive was accompanied by Vera’s description of Russian life and explanations of the landmarks we passed.
She discussed Stalin and what a despot he was and the huge numbers of Russian people he murdered, including beheading many from his own army due to his paranoia. There are still many older Russians who long for those times but most Russians now understand and can talk about what really did happen. She had some personal stories to recount.
More facts! 80% of the food is imported. They get butter from New Zealand, meat from Brazil for instance. For all facilities in their apartments 10% of their wages goes to hot water, gas, heating and the phone. The main food stuffs grown by Russians are potatoes, onions, garlic, mushrooms, tomatoes and beetroot. They harvest wild strawberries, blackberries and blueberries from the forests as do the Scandinavians.
Most Russians have no confidence in the banks and keep their money in their mattresses! True story! Inflation is said to be at 13% but really is at 30%. They can buy or build houses but the plot of land still belongs to the Government and is leased. In the last two years the laws changed and can buy land but many are reluctant to do so due to past history. Vera linked the land back to the age of serfs and then to the communists.
We drove past huge factories that manufactured space equipment/rockets and then crowds of men by the side of the road looking for work – they would do anything. They looked tired and despondent and were mainly from the far east of the country.
Once Perestroika came religion was back in fashion although less than 50% of the population attend services in the cities; but the country is still very religious.
The Monastery we are going to is extremely wealthy. The “New Russians” (very rich and modern Russians) even give the priests cell phones so that they are available for them to call the priest for advice.
In an hour or so we stopped at a small town and went to visit a woman Vera knew who would show us her house and liked visitors. She was a small with an expressive face and a number of us ventured into her small cottage garden whilst she pointed out different plants. She is living in a tiny wooden house whilst another house was being renovated. I wish I could remember her name as Vera interpreted while I chatted to her having found out that she also was an art teacher in once. Now that is amazing. She taught in Moscow and enjoyed it very much. She gave me a bunch of mint.
We pass lovely forests and Vera tells us that the forests are mixed trees but 40% birch trees. There are foxes, wolf, moose, elk and squirrels in these areas.
The Monastery we were to visit was very old and we would see priests in their long outfits and long beards. The spring water that bubbles up from the fountain in the Monastery courtyard is taken home by the locals in plastic bottles and believed to have Fountain of Youth qualities. Vera said to be sure to sprinkle some on our faces… well I still look the same, but the Russian women there are really 645 years old!! We were to see many Russian grandmothers called Babushkas which means grandmother. They come to the Monastery to socialise, do voluntary work and attend services often three times a day. There is a Nunnery 10km away and a tunnel exists between the Nunnery and the Monastery! Before the 15th century Monks and Nuns were together in the same institution.
The Monastery is called the Trinity Monastery of St Sergius and was founded in 1345 by Sergius of Radonezh and is one of Russia’s most important religious centres. It was closed by the Communists but allowed to reopen in 1946 when it became the head quarters of the Russian Orthodox Church.
We have a guided tour first. Walking along the huge white wall which was once a used as fortification, past the Duck Tower, we enter at the Beautiful Tower which is the main entrance, and then after getting our tickets from Vera and paying a fee to take photos we walk under the Gate Church of St John the Baptist and towards the main area. So many churches and so many onion domes! Absolutely stunning.
The first section of the tour takes us into the Cathedral of Assumption. We are not allowed to take photos here so we had to admire the highly decorated walls towering above us and the iconostasis seen on main altar wall. These figures of the saints are surrounded by highly patterned and impressive gilt work. The Cathedral was commissioned by Ivan the Terrible in 1559 and there are local people singing in a group in one corner which adds to the atmosphere.
Outside we are shown the Chapel over the Well which marks the site of the Holy Spring and watch the local women collecting water from the rotunda over the Holy Spring.
Near this Rotunda is the large blue and white Bell Tower and we head over to the Church of St Sergius and look at the Refectory area with its lavish decoration and then are shown inside the actual Church section. We have another local guide for the Monastery.
There are a number of renovations in several buildings and we spy open crates with bones under the stairs of this building.
Then, another Cathedral … and I am not sick of them! This one is the Trinity Cathedral built in 1422 and over the grave of St Sergius himself! This white church is also richly decorated with paintings of the saints and a lot of gold. The air is heavily incensed and the church crowded with worshippers who have come to pay their respects to the tomb in the corner manned by a priest who makes sure that they kiss the appropriate areas and then he wipes it clean for the next person to kiss.
There is a constant stream of Russians queuing to enter and to visit the tomb. The incense seller in the foyer is doing a brisk trade. We gawk like the tourists that we are and sidle out.
Outside there are instructions for the restrooms and other sections to visit as well as lunch and souvenir suggestions. We were to meet back at the bus in an hour and half (roughly). Mark and I looked inside other buildings and I took more photos as the sun had come out and the blue sky looked gorgeous against the gold domes. I zoomed in to take sneaky photos of the women and priests!
After a good explore we went outside and trawled the market and part of the town.
Vera had told us that this was the very best spot to buy souvenirs as the local people here are the ones who make many of the souvenirs that are then transported into the large cities and sold for far more. She particularly mentioned the lacquer boxes, something Mark and I were very interested in buying. She said to look out for the artist’s name on the bottom and the more detail the better. The first stall turned out to be the best with really beautiful designs in tiny detail with gold highlights and based on Pushkin’s fairy tales. We got one based on The Golden Fish. I also got a cushion cover (Which now have stuffed and on the couch which looks great and very easy to pack in a suitcase) and forced myself once again Not to buy a fur hat! After getting back to Moscow and pricing the better boxes in various places we had got a bargain.
The souvenir stalls have plenty of the nesting dolls (the original colours of these were red, yellow and green if you wish to be authentic) and many other crafts such as knitted goods and toys.
There was just enough time to go to a small shop and we bought a pancake with a potato filling in it to enjoy in the sunshine. Very cheap and delicious. Some of the other travellers went to a nearby restaurant to have a longer lunch rather than wander and some went to Maccas. Mark and I were very pleased with our time use and happy to walk after the big breakfast.
Back on the bus all too soon and a lovely drive back into Moscow passing the Enormous and very impressive Titanium memorial to Yuriy Gagarin the first man into space and situated in Exhibition Park.
Conclusion: We had a great time and surveying the others on the bus it seemed that we were all satisfied with the choice. OF course if we had not done this I could think of many other places to visit, but cant do it all at once!
Optional – Moscow/Russian Circus
Again, the down side to this Optional is that it is another early evening departure so there is not much time to sit down at a restaurant and enjoy a meal and wine. So after we had a short relax and tidy up mark and I trawled the Crowne Plaza complex for possibilities. There are a lot in here but obviously expensive although you can select less expensive dishes from the menu. There are Chinese, Russian, Pizza, an expensive English Pub and Japanese establishments. They all looked ok but a bit stuffy. There is also a supermarket if you want to get a snack and take back to the room. The trouble is there is not time to go out from the hotel and find or take transport to another place. Quite a number of those on tour went to the café in the foyer area and had burgers; chips etc although they found the service here slow. Apparently the Ukraine restaurant across from the hotel has excellent food and a number of travellers who did not do the optional dined here. You need a good couple of hours to appreciate the dining experience. We had just under an hour till the evening optional left by the time we arrived back so Mark and I had a beer!!
Off to the Circus!
The traffic was horrendous and there was one section where Andrey did a turn and then had to back out into crowed traffic as there were too many cars to turn properly. The whole bus thought he would never make it and probably take the side off one of the parked cars. He didn’t! Apart from that prolonged agony we arrived safely and our seats were high up but had good views of the ring and entertainment. Outside there were many stalls with toys and souvenirs mainly aimed at children as well as animals for spectators to pat or have their photos with. It was extremely noisy.
The human acts were very clever and I enjoyed the tumbling and juggling skills of the performers but the stand outs were those who twirled their bodies on ribbon extending from the ceiling.
I could do without the ferrets and cats, but maybe the circus needs them instead of tigers?! There were some monkeys in costumes and a bear – not that impressed with them really. (Some people were annoyed as told there wasn’t going to be a bear and there was)
Overall: It was an entertaining experience and we were glad we went but next time would skip and venture out for a long traditional Russian dinner somewhere.
Back at the hotel I decided that we should have a late dinner and so ordered room service. (I was hungry now…alright?!) The beef Strogonov was really excellent and we also cheese platter with fresh fruit as well as the cheese and a very nice bottle of red. It was great to lounge around and enjoy it even if it was 10 at night. If I work out which Russian docket is which I will edit the post and give you an idea of price.
ZZZZZZ

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Saturday July 4th Moscow Highlights

Last true day of the tour begins with another search for a free table for breakfast. We sit with a nice couple from Sydney who had managed to nab one.
The bus for the tour departs around 9 am and we firstly set off to the building which houses a circular room and a visual history of the war with Napoleon captured by a vast painting 115m long and 14m which fits on the walls of this room. This museum called the Borodino Panorama Museum also devotes itself to army memorabilia and a range of uniforms, medals, and information is spread out in glass cases. The walls are covered with paintings of the period and showing the famous faces in the Army, the bleak winter conditions faced by Napoleon and views of the cities. We climb up the stairs and into the diorama room and Vera takes us around by recounting the battle depicted and who was who on the wall on what horse etc. This is very well done indeed and a good example of bringing history to life.
Back on the bus after hitting the restrooms we drove around before going to the enormous Victory Park. There was a change of plans for the tour as someone hugely famous in Russia had died on July 1st; a singer called Ludmila Zykina who died at the age of 80. She was much loved by millions of people in the former Soviet Union and Kremlin leaders alike. There was to be a state funeral and that was to take place today. Consequently we were to forego the cemetery, which was fine, but there would be security to avoid in some sections of the city. As Vera said we were really lucky that the tour wasn’t next week when President Obama would be in Moscow and everything would be closed down for security and therefore the Kremlin and Red Square would be out of bounds!! How dreadful if one had come all the way in a short time frame to miss these things.
The Victory Park commemorates victory in the great Patriotic War, Russia’s name for World War Two. The Park is very formally laid out with a fountain lined avenue leading to the central Nike Monument designed to honour the Greek goddess of victory.
We took photos !!! The park is where the young newlyweds come to have their photos taken after the wedding. We saw two couples having their pictures taken while we were there and apparently they still come in winter, wearing fur coats over their white dresses and possibly fur boots too! We saw one Rolls Royce ruined with fake pink flowers on the bonnet and the car painted hot pink! There were other wedding cars and lots of action, but we went inside with Vera instead. What a vast empty building it seems. Very few visitors for a cloak room that seemed half a kilometre long! We went from Diorama room to room to view paintings capturing moments in World War 2 as experienced by the Russians. These were done very cleverly so that the foreground was three dimensional and melded into the paintings. The one of the battle in St Petersburg, called the Siege of Leningrad, was fabulous and we learnt how much hardship the people faced during that time. It is a tribute to the heroism of the people defending the city who survived 900 days of the siege.
We could not take photos and were watched very carefully by the dour women guards. Some things take awhile to change! I brought some postcards at the strange souvenir shop inside the museum to remember the dioramas but they do not do the actual paintings justice.
Outside we had 15 mins to take last photos and meet back at the bus and head to Old Arbat for lunch and shopping.
The street, Ulitsa Arbat, is pedestrianized and is lined with a number of tacky souvenir shops, antiques shops, boutiques, and restaurants – Russian and the Usual Maccas and Gloria Jeans. Vera took us along the street and pointed out places to eat, a good place to try vodka before you buy it etc. We had a good long time here – perhaps 2 hours, although it flew by quickly. Mark and I decided to do some final souvenirs for friends and walked all the way along and back. Firstly we tried the vodka and would have brought some if we weren’t doing another 20 days tour after this. I was tempted by a Russian sequinned headpiece! What is it with me and hats I will never wear? Lol. The shop with the vodka had a range of nicer souvenirs. We were also tempted by smaller antique pieces in another shop but didn’t succumb.
During this time, some of the travellers had lunch in a suggested restaurant called Moo Moo (I think this is correct) which looked good but very busy, some like us walked around and explored, some went to the Pushkin Museum which is on this street (looks fabulous – wish I had gone - next time!). I had a coffee and snack and Mark ate fruit!
We got KGB hats for our daughter’s boyfriends and several smaller bits and pieces. I nearly brought a pair of shoes as there was a nice shoe shop here!



How cute are these Buskers?!

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The Final Afternoon: The Kremlin Tour and the Armoury.

Next stop was to meet up with those not on the morning tour and head to the Kremlin. I had no idea what to expect the Kremlin to be like. We usually think about the Communists and secret Russian business when we hear the word. Although I had done some exploration into the tour before we left home it was mainly to look at St Petersburg rather than Moscow.
There was a queue to get through security but once again being in a tour group allows us to get through quickly. Vera gives us descriptions about each section we walk to and tells us to not to walk at all on the main parade ground unless we want to get sent to Siberia!!
We look at the giant cannon and then the giant bell – both impressive in size and both never used. The Tsar Bell is the largest in the world! The pale yellow and white buildings on the other side of the open area are the home to the Russian presidential administration. They were originally the training school for the Red Army Officers. We spy more of the onion domes and I am thoroughly gob-smacked by the beauty of these cathedrals as we turn a corner and walk out into square they are placed around. The magnificent gold domes of the white cathedral of the Assumption, the Cathedral of the Archangel, Ivan the Great Bell Tower, Cathedral of the Annunciation to name a few.
Once again Vera talked to us about several of the structures and history of the area we were looking at after letting us take some photographs. I could have spent even longer taking pictures from different angles to see which would turn out well later. The Bell Tower was built in 1505 and was once the tallest building in Moscow.
We went into the Cathedral of the Assumption as a group. It was a building where photos were not allowed. It was very beautiful inside and a highlight for me, besides the stunning iconostasis rising majestically behind the altar were very old three seats, one of which belonged to Ivan the Terrible. This is the Monomakh Throne and is impressive with carvings. The other seats were for the Tsarina and the Patriarch. There are beautiful chandeliers and the frescoes painted in the mid 1600s covering the columns, walls and tower are intricate. For six centuries the Assumption Cathedral had been the state and cultural centre of Russia: Great Princes were set for reigning and local princes swore fealty, inaugurations of Tsars and coronations of Emperors took place here. Bishops, Metropolitans and Patriarchs were also inaugurated; statements and ceremonial documents were publicly read, church services before military campaigns and in case of a victory were held at the Assumption Cathedral. There are many tourists in hers but also many worshippers who solemnly kneel and pray or sing quietly in the corner.
We wander quietly after Vera has pointed out the items of interest and then back out into the sunshine. Gradually we all meet up and start towards the Great Kremlin Palace passing the Cathedral of The Annunciation, the only Cathedral built by Russians. (The others were created by Italians) This building began its life in 1484 and was gradually added to; particularly memorable being the porch built by Ivan the Terrible in 1572 so he could watch services through a grille as he was banned from the church for marrying for a fourth time.
I would have liked to have seen inside here as all the interior is painted with frescoes and looks charming in the guide books. Also the Terem Palace looks astonishing due to its eleven richly decorated onion domes.
Kremlin Museums

The Great Kremlin Palace is painted in straw yellow and white and was built to replace the original in the early 1800s and was used as the residence of the royal family. The same architect also rebuilt the Armoury. We only saw the outside of this building. Again; there is a lot to look at and if I can I would return here – but need to do a few more countries on my list first!

On to the stunning Armoury and the Optional: Imperial Splendour.

Those not doing this were taken back out of the Kremlin with Monica whilst Vera took the rest of us inside. What a mind-boggling place this is. Not to be missed. I would do this again, although I would love to wander off and spend time looking at certain areas again.
The State Armoury represents the wealth accumulated by Russian princes and Tsars over many centuries. Gold and silversmiths, workshops producing icons and embroidery, the Royal Stables and forges producing armour and weaponry moved into the Kremlin hundreds of years ago. We entered via an impressive hall and up a staircase to the costumes. It was amazing to see the costumes of Peter the Great, especially his really long boots. The gowns belonging to Catherine were stunning. It is hard to imagine how the weavers could achieve such beautiful materials and the decorations on these gowns and the church regalia are fabulous. But, not as fabulous as the crowns! Or the thrones! Or the Diamonds! Or the Carriages! Or the gold, gem encrusted Bibles! Or the Faberge eggs! I’ll stop now!
The crowns, particularly that of Ivan with its sable edging, were marvellous, and the uncut diamonds and jewels on each of them were stunning. Vera assured us that these were not copies. The carriages were impressive and so too were the diamonds and saddles for the royal horses.
We also looked at the royal Bibles and other gifts such as the 3kg solid gold platters given to the Tsar’s wives. Both Mark and I were also astounded by the real Faberge eggs. Having only seen many cheap copies that were garishly coloured we weren’t prepared for the exquisite and minute detail of the real eggs. The innovative themes and precious materials used were incredible.
The Armoury

Well, that was about it – as if that wasn’t enough to take in! We trooped out and said good bye to a couple from South Africa who were heading straight to the Ballet and then off home very early. They were a delightful and genuine pair and we would all miss them during the farewell drinks.
The rest of us boarded the bus and arrived back at the hotel at 5.30pm. Drinks was around 6! I still managed a shower, hair wash and a nice top before the meeting!
There was a glass of wine and we sat at tables to chat at first, then after Monica had spoken and wished people well it was time to exchange contacts with many, say farewell to those we wouldn’t see and thank Vera profusely for the splendid job she did.
It was a lovely time but all too short as some had dinner reservations or were meeting up with friends who actually lived in Russia.
Several of us went down to dinner at the Hotel restaurant where the breakfast is served. It was a good chance to continue talking. I had Russian Pelmini soup – delicious and Beef Strogonov again because they had done it so well for room service. Mark had Lamb Shanks and stole my soup! We had a great bottle of red wine too.
We went up to organise our bags ready for airport security and juggle things into hand luggage. We had enjoyed our time immensely.

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3P1100872.JPG (88 KB, 5 downloads) Cathedral of the Annunciation